Uphill Diaries: Exploring Gesäuse mountains (liveblog)

As one of the mountain groups located in the region that I live, Gesäuse has always been interested me. As it was very close to where I used to live until the summer of 2021, I visited many times the eastern subgroup of these mountains (Eisenerzer Reichenstein 2165 m, and Gößeck 2214). From east it is reachable from Leoben. From the west side they are neighbors with Admont, with its famous monastery. The highest peak of the Gesäuse is Hochtor 2369 m.

So this year I decided to explore the region. With a aim of doing a long trip visiting multiple peaks in an activity of several days. There are already some really interesting multiple-day routes in the literature.

In this blog post I am summarizing all the acitivities that I do during the summer of 2022.

June 19, 2022: Wald am Schoberpass - Lahnerleitenspitze - Speikkogel - Hinkareck - Zeiritzkampel - Kalwang

I took the train at 6:26 from Graz to arrive at 7:53 in Wald am Schoberpass. It was sunny at kind of hot. The first couple of kilometers were passing through asphalt or car roads. However later slowly the path led to a nice hiking trail. I was passing by or through some streams. So I became also sure that later when I descend from towards Kalwang from the next valley I won't have water problem.

The trail was steep, but very enjoyable to run. In the 7th km I arrived a pass called Jungfernsprung (or Jungfrauensprung). There is also a ridge around Graz with the same name. In km 10 I was at the saddle called Leobner Törl. Continuing to left, I would climb the peak called Leobner. But I did a sharp right and continued on a ridge which brought me to Lahnerleitenspitze 2027 m. The view was beautiful. I could also see the descent and the ascent to the next peak (Speikkogel 1992 m).

I was running on quite alone on these trails. I encountered some hikers. But there were not many. The trail was still quite runnable. It was not that hot. I was feeling very good. The next peak was Hinkareck 1932 m. From km 15 I started the climb to the last and highest point of today's run: Zeiritzkampel 2125 m.

In the last meters to the peak suddenly the ridge became quite narrow, with a very short secured section. At the peak I stopped to enjoy my solitude and the view. A hiker was approaching the peak from the direction that I was heading to. When she arrived we saluted each other. The ridge section right after the peak was very exciting. You can also see in the images how narrow the ridge was. However it was not hard to cross.

The later kms included some improvised downhill runs, tripping to a root and falling, suffering from severe heat, missing the train by literally 15 seconds, and in the end a very delicious Wiener Schnitzel.

Yes, I missed my planned train back to Graz by only seconds. I had to wait 2 more hours at Kalwang to catch the next train. Actually it was not a bad idea. I was exhausted by the heat, so at the completely empty train station I recovered a bit by lying on a bank, taking off my shoes and socks. And later I went to a restaurant to have lunch. So everything went fine.

Gear:

- My brand new Ultimate Direction Ultra 5 running vest. It is a good vest. It does not get wet by sweat like my Salomon vest. It is very lightweight, and the stuff fit perfectly and do not jump around while running.

- Two 0.5 lt Source water bottles. They did the job.

- The other standard mountain running gear: Poles, water bladder, food, salted Haribo gums, running shoes.

Note: During the last very steep downhill sections I admired again my La Sportiva Bushido shoes. I am always amazed how good they perform.

One of the streams that I encountered during the first kilometers.

A look back on the trail, probably I was at Leobner Törl. Großer Ödstein and Hochtor are visible.

A look back on the climb to Rotwandköpfl. Further away most probably Admonter Reichenstein, Sparafeld and Admonter Kalbling are visible.

The Styrian Matterhorn, Lugauer.

The climb to Lahnerleitenspitze. I love this.

The trail ahead, and the next peak (Speikkogel) from Lahnerleitenspitze.

A look back to Lahnerleitenspitze from Speikkogel.

The highest point of the run, Zeiritzkampel. Looking back from where I came from.

The ridge ahead of me from Zeiritzkampel.

July 3, 2022: Mödlinger Hütte - Admonter Kalbling - Riffel - Mödlinger Hütte

The impulse for this activity came when I was in Ljubljana, walking in the city center full of people. I thought about those calm and exceptionally beautiful evenings when I was at a mountain hut. Enjoying the last minutes of sun, meditating about the hike/run that I did that day, or I will do the next day. I missed that feeling so much. So I decided to book a night at the Mödlinger hut, which one of the major huts at the Gesäuse.

Getting there requires an approximately 6.5 km (with around 800 m elevation gain) hike from Gaishorn am See. On Saturday (July 2, 2022) afternoon I got to the train (same connection as the first activity). As I arrived in Gaishorn around 6 pm, I started my hike which took exactly 1h24m until I reached the hut. The weather was not hot at all. This weekend was perfect for mountain activities because it rained the day before and the weather was substantially cooler. There were people sitting outside when I arrived in the hut. I checked-in, put my stuff in my room and got out to enjoy the exact thing that I was longing for: calm evening at the mountains, watching the mountains, thinking.

The hut was very clean, I was thinking, maybe even cleaner than my own apartment. Hikers sitting outside were talking very calmly, not to disturb the calmness.

I had a Kaspressknödelsuppe, two Frankfurter and a beer. I spent some more time (until approximately 9:30 pm), and then I went to my room. I did some reading before falling asleep.

I woke up at 6:30 am the next day. I put my stuff together, filled my water bottles, ate the sandwich that I bought the previous day from Graz, and headed out.

The first 2 km have around 300 m of elevation loss. After that the trail becomes steeper and steeper. The trail until the Klinke hut passes through some streams, which made me slow down. The actual enjoyable section started from the Klinke hut (1486 m) with around 2.7 km and 700 m elevation gain. The path to the first and the highest peak, Kalbling 2196 m, was quite technical, with some exciting traverses. The path leads to a saddle, where turning left is the climb to Riffel, and left leads to Kalbling and Sparafeld. After the saddle the trail is quite easy (only steep).

I reached the peak of Kalbling 1h40m after starting from the Mödlinger hut. At the top a hiker joked with me asking me if I am the guy who writes the estimated times on the road signs in the mountains.

From Kalbling a fast downhill and short uphill run brought me to Riffel. From there I came back to the Mödlinger hut.

At the rocky sections, after the Klinke hut, it was quite windy.

On the way from numerous locations it was possible to get water.

Running gear: same as the activity on June 19, 2022. Additionally I took stuff necessary for my stay at the hut (including a hut sleeping bag).

After the run I took a shower, put my stuff together and came to the terrace. As a lunch I had Grießkockerlsuppe, Hausgröstl, and a Apfelstrudel. After the lunch I started my hike back to Gaishorn, which took around 56 minutes. At the train station I waite around 25 minutes until the train arrived.