Ode to the Sunrise

After running to Eisenerzer Reichenstein and Gösseck, I am struggling to get motivated about new running plans. One of the signs of this problem is that I started to make plans on how I will improve myself in my side sport, climbing/bouldering. These thoughts in my head are indication of a lack of motivation for running. Nothing about running made my heart beat fast during these last weeks. 

On Monday 24th of August I was having these thoughts in my head. I was also thinking about this upcoming race on 12th of September: Stanzer Trail Run. A 47 km trail running race, with 1900 m of elevation gain. A race that I also participated last year, finished as second in my age group. I told the organizers that I will definitely run there next year too.

So as a "preparation" for this run, I had to do a long slow run, which would simulate the conditions, in around 30% less volume than the actual race. This formula is very famous between road marathon runners: as a final preparation step, they run a 30 km run. 

At least I had a reason to do a long run again. 

I thought about doing it on the next day, Tuesday (August 25), which I had off from the work. The weather was going to be sunny. Not the best conditions to cheer me up for a long run.

It can sound really weird, but normally extreme conditions bring my motivation higher, they psych me up. I need bad weather, and/or weird time of the day etc. to think that I actually am going to achieve something important. During winter under snow/rain I do a lot of hard training, and I actually enjoy them a lot.

What could be the most extreme condition on a nice late summer day? I know the answer. I was going to do this long run really early in the morning. Actually so early that I was going to need a headlamp.

This idea came to my mind when I was reading an article in a magazine about the charm of running in the complete darkness in the night.

I checked the sunrise time. 6:10 am. So if I start my run at 4:30, then I would enjoy a fair amount of darkness on the trails.

I actually have a long history with the early mornings before sunrise..

Since my childhood I always had an obsession with the night, and especially with the hours right before sunrise. I have always loved those magical moments, where the nature wakes up, where hope comes back again. Time for new surprises, encounters, laughs. I never forget that night in my childhood when I told my parents that I want to stay awake the whole night, until sunrise. They let me do it. But I could not make it until sunrise. I waited for some hours, watched TV (there was a political discussion about Iran, I remember it very clearly), and then gave up and went to sleep. 

When I wake up earlier than my normal routine to do something special (running on a race, catching a train/flight, expecting a guest), it makes my whole day. I have a nice feeling about it, and sometimes it lasts for a long time.

I had three unforgettable running experiences in the night. On one of them we started at 12 am, and finished at 4:30 am. I wrote a blog post about it (in Turkish).

Long story short, I like nights and those hours before sunrise.

So on Monday night I prepared all the necessary gear and went to sleep, excited like I was that kid again. And the next day at 4:20 am I was already lacing up my running shoes. Finally I was out there, doing the thing that I like the most, in the darkness, while observing the transition from darkness to light. I did not know how to make the time flow slower. I did not know how to enjoy darkness longer. Excited like a kid.

Flowing inside the darkness, seeing only some meters in front of me with the light of my headlamp.. Like dancing alone to my favorite song, while everyone is asleep. Beautiful.

Or maybe some animals were wide awake and watching me dance while running up and down between the trees.

Activity Report: Eisenerzer Reichenstein and Gösseck

Trail head: Präbichl Passhöhe

Getting to the trail head: By bus

End point of the run: Kammern im Liesingtal

Coming back to Leoben: By train

Weather condition: Sunny, cool in the morning in Präbichl, but later rather hot.

Food, water supply: I ate 3 Clif bars and 2 energy bars. There was 3 water source on the way (Hirnalm, Schardorf Parking station, Kammern)

Equipment and safety: Extra T-shirt, elastic band, Hansaplast, emergency blanket, Inreach mini, running poles, money, sun cream

I woke up at 5:30, and ate some low-density high-calories food. I rode to train station, from where the bus to Präbichl starts. At 6:35 the bus moves and then at 7:16 I'm at Präbichl Passhöhe. I made my equipment ready and started the run at 7:27.

I was planning to get to the Reichenstein's peak in one hour. I did it some minutes later than that. Especially because I didn't want to go from metal stairs, as there was a long queue there. So I took the normal way, which made the route longer.

I took some pictures on the top, and continued my way towards Hirnalm. Before Reichhals the trail has a lot of big stones, and early in the morning these stones were wet, which made it really hard to run. I was also feeling the effect of having too much elevation gain in a short amount of time, which somehow makes the decision making a bit hard. I could have used my poles in this section but I already packed them in my backpack, thinking that I'll not need them until ascent to the Gösseck. From Krumpenalm to Schardorf I felt the time passed fast, as it was for the first time that I could really "run" non-stop.

There was some short section of asphalt, from Hafning to Schardorf. Before parking station (hiking trail head for Gösseck) I crossed a golf center. Interesting transition from mountains to this kind of luxurious place. At the Schardorf parking station I refilled my water bladder, drank a lot of water, ate a Cliff bar, and started for the second and longest ascent of the day.

Uphill here consists of around 5.5 km, with around 1200 m of elevation gain. My plan was to do it in 90 minutes, as I was already tired. No need to run in a race tempo. In the middle of this section, where there was still around 600 elevation gain left until the peak, I felt really tired, had to stop again to eat and drink. The sun was also making the job harder for me. But as I got higher, the excitement of reaching to the peak was encouraging me to go on. 

Finally on the top. It took me around 95 minutes from parking station to here. I did not stop too long there, took some pictures and went on. from Gösseck to Kammern is around 9 km, with some very beautiful views. The way is through a plateau, which is also visible from Leoben. Then a 4 km way begins with around 1000 m of elevation loss. As my feet were already tired, this last downhill section was rather painful. In the rocky sections I was getting help from my poles.

When I reached Kammern, I had already finished my water, so I was very glad to drink from this cold water in the village's center.

I sat down there and recovered from more than 6 hours of almost non-stop motion, changed my t-shirt, and bought the ticket back to Leoben.

At 14:19 the train arrived, with which I arrived in Leoben around 14:43.

Notes regarding my new running poles: It was the first time I used these poles for running. Before this I used them for hiking, and they were doing a good job. But this time, using them for uphill running, and also in technical downhill sections, I got a lot of help from them.

In the bus on the way to Präbichl. The second peak of the day is visible.

First peak of the day. Already crowded with hikers.

The view of the second peak from the first one.

The second peak of the day

The view of the first peak from the second one.

Train station in Kammern, waiting for the train to Leoben. On the background the mountains which I ran are visible.

9 Advices for Mountaineers - Dağcılara 9 Öğüt

1) Climbing mountains, skiing is a noble, clean sport and is not for lazy people. Do not act in a way that causes a statement against this sport, also warn those who act that way.

2) Do not participate in any activity which exceeds your strength. Try to dominate the mountains and nature on every activity. Otherwise, you endanger both yourself and others. As soon as you realize that you don't have power and strength anymore, even if you have not reached your goal yet, return. Mountaineering and skiing are not record sports.

3) Whether you are alone or with friends, always design every activity first in your head, then set off. Remember that mountains are always dangerous, don't belittle them. But also believe that you can overcome these dangers with attention, care and calmness.

4) Do not forget that a clean spirit and high discipline are at the forefront of mountaineering. Always be clean, gentle and calm. Don't show off. Your movements, your dressing should not be flamboyant. Do not think that you are free to do everything just because “there is freedom in the mountains”.

5) Don't pollute the places that you go, even if no one is going to show up. Don't spread around scraps of paper, eggshells, boxes, etc. on the hills. Keep water supplies clean. Don't break the road signs. Such jokes can cause many disasters. If your path passes through the villages, don't walk in a way that harms the fields.

6) Friendship on the mountain is not like anywhere else, remember this. Be altruistic. If you are the head of the group, watch the weakest of the group. Two heads are better than one. Don't forget that you can also be the weakest of another group. If you are the strongest, don't make it clear. Modesty is the greatest force. Don't leave your friend on the road. This way you can be a killer. Don't batten on other people's food, drink, experience. Help the helpless, even a stranger. Even if it is a sip of tea in your thermos, do not hesitate to share the half of it.

7) Value the bunker above your own home. Money does not play a role in bunker. Everyone is equal, remember. The refuge is not a tavern. Do not occupy more space than necessary in the shelter. Don't shout, sing and play if you can't, and don't want to hear it.

Do not write unnecessary stuff in the mountain and refuge books. Do not write on shelter walls and trees.

Don't make noise while walking in the shelter. Speak less and slow, do not smoke.

If you are snoring, know this. If possible, sleep in a separate place. Be careful about fire in the bunker. There is no fire station on the mountain. Keep everything clean and in their right place.

As you leave the empty shelters, think about others who will come after you. Put out the fire, clean everywhere. Close the door, the chimney, go out like that.

8) Don't lie. Do not boast of what happened on the mountains. Don't steal. Annoying, disturbing other people is also theft. Don't take others' sticks, skis, even the smallest straps. Don't use swearwords, be careful about how you speak. Don't belittle the peasant if you come from the city.

9) Don't go to the mountains just to gather stories to tell, and because it is cool. Look for clean spirit, strength, greatness, joy and humanity there.

Latif Osman ÇIKIGİL

Reference: https://www.instagram.com/p/CCacnlzgspp/?igshid=kzooussuyq1v

*****

1) Dağlara tırmanmak, kayakla dolaşmak asil, temiz ve miskinlere yaraşmayan bir spordur. Bu sporun aleyhinde söz söyletecek şekilde hareket etme, böyle hareket edenleri de uyar.

2) Gücünün dışında hiçbir geziye katılma. Her gezide dağlara ve tabiata hakim olmaya çalış. Aksi takdirde hem kendini hem de yanındakileri tehlikeye sokarsın. Kuvvet ve iktidarın tamamıyla tükendiğini duyduğun anda gayeye varmamış olsan da dön. Dağcılık ve kayak rekor sporu değildir.

3) İster yalnız, ister arkadaşlarla ol, daima her geziyi evvela kafanda tasarla, yola öyle çık. Dağların daima tehlikeli olduğunu unutma, onları küçük görme. Şuna da inan ki, dikkat, itina ve soğukkanlılıkla bu tehlikelere karşı koyabilirsin.

4) Dağcılıkta temiz bir ruh ve yüksek bir terbiyenin önde geldiğini unutma. Daima temiz, nazik ve sakin ol. Gösteriş yapma. Hareketlerin, giyinişin göze batar şekilde olmasın. “Dağlarda hürriyet vardır” sözünden her şeyi yapmaya serbest olduğun manasını çıkarma.

5) Dolaştığın yerleri, kimsenin gelmeyeceği yerler olsa bile, pisletme. Kağıt, yumurta kabuğu, kutu gibi artıkları tepelere rastgele saçma. Su kaynaklarını temiz tut. Yollara konmuş işaretleri bozma. Bu tür şakalar nice felaketler doğurabilir. Yolun köylerden geçerse, tarlalara zarar verecek şekilde yürüme.

6) Dağda arkadaşlık hiçbir yerdekine benzemez, bunu unutma. Fedakar ol. Kafile başkanı isen kafilenin en zayıfını gözet. El elden üstündür. Sen de başka bir kafilenin en zayıfı olabilirsin, unutma. En kuvvetli sen isen bunu caka ile belli etme. Tevazu en büyük kuvvettir. Arkadaşını yolda bırakma. Bu şekilde katil olabilirsin. Yiyeceğinde, içeceğinde, göreceğinde başkalarının sırtından geçinme. Fakat, yabancı da olsa, çaresiz kalana yardım et. Termosunda çayın bir yudum da olsa, icabında yarısını vermeyi esirgeme.

7) Sığınağı kendi evinden daha üstün tut. Sığınakta paranın hükmü azdır. Herkes müsavidir, unutma. Sığınak bir meyhane değildir. Sığınakta gereğinden fazla yer işgal etme. Bağırma, bilmiyorsan ve istemiyorlarsa şarkı söyleme ve çalgı çalma.

Dağ ve sığınak defterlerini lüzumsuz sözlerle doldurma. Sığınak duvarlarına, ağaçlara yazı yazma.

Sığınakta dolaşırken postallarla tıkırtı, gürültü etme. Hele yatakhanede az ve yavaş konuş, sigara içme.

Horlamak adetindeysen bunu bil. Mümkün ise ayrı bir yerde uyu. Sığınakta ateş konusunda dikkatli ol. Dağda itfaiye yoktur. Herşeyi temiz tut ve yerli yerine koy.

Kimsesiz sığınakları terkederken senden sonra gelecekleri düşün. Ateşi söndür, her yeri temizle. Kapıyı bacayı kapa, öyle dışarı çık.

8) Yalan söyleme. Dağda başından geçenlerle övünme. Hırsızlık yapma. Başkalarının neş’esini, rahatını çalmak da hırsızlıktır. Başkalarının sopalarını, kayaklarını, hatta en ufak kayışını bile alma. Küfürbaz olma, ağzından çıkanı kulağın duysun. Şehirden geliyorsan köylüyü küçük görme.

9) Dağlara, şehirde anlatılacak konu olsun ve modadır diye çıkma. Orada temiz ruh, kuvvet, büyüklük, neş’e ve insanlık ara.

Latif Osman ÇIKIGİL

Kaynak: https://www.instagram.com/p/CCacnlzgspp/?igshid=kzooussuyq1v

Activity Report: To the Grüner See

Trail head: Somewhere on the road to Hiaslegg (the same point where I started my run to Leobner Mauer during the three days run)

Biking to the trail head: 17.3 km, with 290 m of elevation gain

Weather condition: Cloudy at the trail head, foggy with half-frozen rain drops on the mountains. Sometimes cold, windy. 

Food, water supply: Only some sips of water, no food during the run! (I had 3 Clif bars + one energy bar with me, but didn't need them.)

Inside my backpack: Clothes, rainjacket, food, water, money.

Notes about the activity: The weather was unstable. So I prepared three different routes depending on the weather conditions, so that I could decide on the run. One of them was through Hochturm, and then Lamingsattel and from there down to the valley towards the lake. Another one was through Leobner Mauer, and again from Lamingsattel to the lake. Finally another one was not passing through any peak, but was longer because after Lamingsattel it was going on to Hirscheggsattel and from there to Neuwaldalm and then to the lake.

On the run I decided to do a combination of the second and the third alternatives. I first went to Leobner Mauer, and from there down to Lamingsattel, then Hirscheggsattel, Neuwaldalm and the rest. The reason for this was that I was feeling myself very goof, I was confident about myself and the weather was somehow stable.

On the way to Leobner Mauer I used a different road, which my GPS route suggested me. I lost the way some couple of times. Getting to the peak the weather got colder, and some rain droplets started to come down on me. I was completely wet, but I was assured because I had enough clothes with me. 

From Leobner Mauer down to the Lamingsattel I saw only two people, other than that I did not encounter anyone from Leobner Mauer until the final forest road leading to the lake. I was feeling safe, but I was also extra careful not to cause any accident. Because there was really nobody around.

After Griesmauerplan to Neuwaldalm the trail was very muddy. It was not nice at all. But after Neuwaldalm the way was beautiful. I enjoyed it a lot.

In general it was a very good experience. I was feeling much more confident on the trail, because I already knew most of it.

Despite bad conditions, I was faster than expected. Beside doing a nice run, I am also happy about this.

Next day I ran to the trail head to bring my bike back.

This time I used an alternative road to the Leobner Mauer

On the way to the Leobner Mauer. Foggy, frozen rain, a bit uncertainty in my head.

On the Leobner Mauer. I was alone. Honestly I expected at least one person there.

Rocky trail from the Leobner Mauer down to the saddle (Lamingsattel). One of my favorite sections of the route, because it is really a technical one.

View from Lamingsattel, on the way to Hirscheggsattel

View from Lamingsattel towards northeast

On the Griesmauerplan. The conditions were far from optimal, but I was having a real joy running on these route.

Right after Neuwaldalm, the trail becomes very nice to run. All of it is downhill, but not so hard.

The trail connects to this forest road.

There is this narrower road from the main forest road, towards Grüner See and Tragöß.

The final kilometer, with asphalt road.

Finally the Grüner See. Almost empty this time of the year.

Tasty Käsespätzle at the Gasthaus near the lake

Activity Report: Exploring Hochschwab Region Pt 1

Trail head: Präbichl Passhöhe (fire brigade station)

Biking to the trail head: 24 km, with 670 m of elevation gain

Weather condition: Partly cloudy, not so warm, sometimes windy (during the run to Polster had to use my wind jacket)

Food, water supply: 3 Clif bars + 2 energy bars. I had 2 lt of water with me, but since it was not too hot, I did not lose much water. So I did not need all of it. And there was also possibility to drink water on the way (and also in the worst case Leobner Hütte is close).

Mainly the trail was muddy, and not so optimal to run fast. And also, as I just started to run right after finishing an almost 2 hours ride from Leoben to Präbichl, my legs were already feeling a bit funny. The uphill run to the Leobner hut was from a different route which I would normally go. On the way there was a very short passage with chain security. During my run there was in total 3 of such passages. However none of them were really hard to pass.

Since the route after the Hirscheggsattel was totally new to me, I could not estimate how it will go. My best plan was to try to get to Brandstein. However the way until Kulmalm was already exhausting to me.

After getting back to Hirscheggsattel I decided to run to Polster. I didn't want to come back without visiting a peak. My uphill run was satisfying to me, after all. And for the first time I could see around from Polster. During my 2 previous visits everywhere was foggy. Finally, the downhill run from Polster to Hirscheggsattel is always a joy. I decided to run back to Präbichl from the "traditional" road that I normally used to do.

Fire brigade building of Präbichl. Sketches tell the legend of the "Wassermann".

View of Griesmauer from Hirscheggsattel

The trail after Hirscheggsattel

The trail after Hirscheggsattel

Frauenmauer

Western face of Griesmauer, and Neuwaldalm

View of Kulmalm and Kulmstein

From Kulmalm: Griesmauer

From Kulmalm: Griesmauer and Fruenmauer

From Polster: Erzberg and Eisenerz, and far away on the right Kaiserschild are visible.

View from Polster: Kohlerscharte, Frauenmauer and Brandstein are visible.

From Polster: Nieder Polster in the front, Kaiserschild on the left, and Pfaffenstein on the right are visible.

From Polster: Griesmauer, Frauenmauer, Brandstein, and Ebenstein are visible.

Activity Report: Edelweissboden - Hochturm - Leobner Mauer

Trail head: Somewhere on the middle of the road to Hiaslegg Gasthaus

Biking to the trail head: 19 km, 380 m of elevation gain

Weather condition: Partly sunny, warm, but not too hot. Some cloud passages.

Food, water supply: 2 Clif bars, 1 energy bar, around 2 lt of water + some water source in the end of the tour, after Leobner Mauer. No garranty that there will be water on the way. In the worst case the Leobner Hütte can be visited.

Although I did a VK on the day before on the trail leading to Gösseck, my condition for this run was good. I was able to get to Edelweissboden basically without a break. On Edelweissboden the trail is easy to run and very beautiful. After that on the way to Hochturm it becomes more technical, with rocky passages. Until the summit there is no chance of getting lost. After Hochturm one basically continues towards east. The trail leads to a saddle from where one should turn left towards Leobner Mauer. From the summit until the forest road is also a bit technical but not hard to run. As one reaches the forest road it leads directly to Hiaslegg road.

Edelweiss

From Edelweissboden to Hochturm

Brandstein (left), Ebenstein (right) visible on the trail after Edelweissboden to Hochturm

Fun trail to Hochturm, Eisenerzer Reichenstein is visible

Final climb to Hochturm

On Hochturm

Far away Gösseck, then closer Eisenerzer Reichenstein, then the road black to
the Hiaslegg from Leobner Mauer is visible. Photo taken after Hochturm.

On Leobner Mauer

View of Hochturm from Leobner Mauer

Activity Report: Three activities in three days (Leobner Mauer, Eisenerzer Reichenstein, Gösseck)

Thu, 11 Jun, 2020 -  Leobner Mauer (1870 m)

Trail head: somewhere on the middle of the road to Hiaslegg Gasthaus

Biking to the trail head: 17 km, 286 m elevation gain

Weather condition: in the beginning more sun, then cloudy, but no rain

How it felt: very good, but because I knew what is ahead in the next days, I did not push more. Most of the way is just forest road, so at some point it can become a bit boring, or it might not satisfy the expectations. The way is not technical at all. Only in the last kilometer to the peak the way is a bit harder to follow. It is a nice peak if one wants to do it as a part of a larger tour. The way from Präbichl might be more satisfying. But this one is also a good way, if one does not want to start from Präbichl.

The forest road in the first kilometers is not technical at all. Hochturm is visible.

Forest road. Again majestic view of Hochturm is there.

South western view of the way to Leobner Mauer. Here the trail is more technical.
Although the road is already marked, one might easily get lost.

Leobner Mauer

Fri, Jun 12, 2020 - Eisenerzer Reichenstein (2165)

Trail head: Hafning

Biking to the trail head: 13 km, 155 m of elevation gain

Weather condition: Sunny

How it felt: Just like the previous day, I did not push. And it went better than expected. In the technical passages I was careful not to trip over, as I was feeling a bit tired. I did not have a concrete plan. Depending on my own condition and the snow situation wanted to stop at Reichhals, or maybe continue until the peak. I asked some hikers about the way after Reichhals, and they said there is a small snow passage, which is not hard. So I decided to continue. But the whole thing drained more energy than expected. But I cannot complain. It was a nice experience, as it was my first time to Eisenerzer Reichenstein with running. Once before I did it by hike.

Eisenerzer Reichenstein and Krumpensee

The only passage with snow. After Reichhals.

I had to use my ice spikes for the passage. 

View to the back, from the last kilometer. Reichhals, Hieflerkogel,
Große Scharte, Hocheller are visible.

The hut, and the summit are visible. Last hard climbs are over.

The cross at the summit

Southern face of the mountain. The hut also visible. Further down is the Krumpensee.
Further away Gösseck is visible.

Sat, Jun 13, 2020 - Gösseck (2214 m)

Trail head: Kammern im Liesingtal

Biking to the trail head: 17.4 km, 240 m elevation gain

Weather condition: Sunny, hot

How it felt: The tiredness was there, I could feel it from the very beginning. I had to struggle with it the whole time. Running on the plateau that I normally used to see from Leoben was a nice feeling. However somehow it was really hard for me to run continuously, I had trouble to keep my mind only on running. It was like I was overwhelmed by the rapid increase of elevation. So as the first vertical kilometer was over and I was on the plateau the run was much slower than I expected. After summit I did not want to come back from the same route again, so I started to come run down from Jägersteig route, which ends at Schardorf, and from there I had to run on a normal asphalt road until Kammern, which was a bit boring, and the weather was hot, so I was checking my watch more often than normal.

Voluntary fire brigade of the Kammern im Liesingtal.
Can be seen from where I started my run.

During the first vertical kilometer, one can also enjoy the beautiful view towards east.

View of west from Klauen. Here first vertical kilometer is complete.

View to the back, from where I came from.

View of the east from the summit.
Hohe Zölz, and Vordernberger Mauern are visible.
Far away behind Vordernberger Mauern, Hochturm is also visible.

View of Grieskogel from the summit.
If one looks carefully can maybe also the see the trail.
(This is an alternative route, which also starts from Schardorf. It's called Jägersteig).